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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.